Be The Jam

The lamb stock used in this inaugural dish had an extended gestation, the delineation of which would require a meandering yarn worthy of Abe Simpson … Back in the middle of April I remember it was when I found myself buying some lamb shanks, which were the only source of diceable lamb in those days. As the meat casseroled, I made a thin broth from the bones. A week or so later, to accompany a roast shoulder of lamb with anchovies – or Spanish sea wieners as we used to call them – I used the broth to steam some carrots (as was the fashion at the time, natch). The broth was then simmered down with the shoulder bone, producing – after some initial skimming, and later cooling followed by further fat removal – a richly colloidal and thoroughly comforting lamb stock

As if the chorizo in this recipe didn’t provide enough in the way of porcine fats, I also adulterated the stock with some gravy salvaged from the bangers and mash that G had cooked the previous night. I can’t swear to the exact constituents, though sausage oozings, onions, Noilly Prat, dried sage and a little of my plum chutney were all involved for sure. I meant to add a few crushed juniper berries as well; with hindsight, I’m glad I didn’t. Gamey, yes, but pigeon is closer in character to hare and pheasant than venison and correspondingly less suited to the sour astringency of juniper.

The pigeon breasts came from Feller’s in the Covered Market in Oxford: about six quid for ten breasts, which will feed five people.

 ~ 1 litre of lamb stock

 ~ 200g brown lentils (rinsed in cold water)

 ~ 250g black-eye beans (soaked for 8 hours, then rinsed in cold water)

 ~ 200g chorizo (sliced into fairly thin chunks)

 ~ 3 tbsp rye flour

 ~ 1 tsp hot paprika

 ~ 1 tsp dried chillies (moderate heat, e.g. guajillo)

 ~ 10 wood pigeon breasts

 ~ 150ml red wine

 ~ 2 small red onions (sliced into rings)

 ~ 2 small brown onions (sliced into rings)

 ~ 15g dark chocolate

Gently heat the lamb stock and add the lentils and black-eye beans, along with any blood from the pigeon breasts. Add the chorizo and bring to a gentle simmer.

Season the flour and mix in the paprika and dried chillies; use to coat the pigeon breasts. Bring a little olive oil to a high heat and brown the breasts (in batches, if necessary) – two or three minutes on each side should be fine. Remove the breasts to the stew then deglaze the pan with the red wine. Add the red and brown onions and cook for about five minutes. (Keep the heat up and let half the wine bubble excitedly away.) Transfer the onions and juices to the stew and cook for another hour or so, stirring occasionally; cover the pan and turn down the heat to the barest simmer for most of this time.

About fifteen minutes or so before serving add the chocolate and stir thoroughly. Serve with bread.